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Paint prep · NJ + NYC · $50/hr per person

Paint scraping and exterior prep.

The south-facing siding the sun has been peeling since 2019. The porch railing that flakes a new coat off every spring. The garage door whose paint cracked into alligator scales. Paint prep is the part nobody charges for honestly — but a good scrape and sand is 70 percent of how a paint job lasts five years instead of one. We bring scrapers, sanders, a HEPA shop vac, and the patience to do it right.

Best for

What we knock out on a paint prep job.

  • Wood siding prep — clapboard, shake, cedar shingle — before repaint
  • Trim prep — eaves, fascia, soffits, window casings
  • Porch and deck prep — rails, balusters, stair stringers, ceilings
  • Garage door and shed prep — flaking paint, alligator cracking, rust spots
  • Lead-paint-safe work on pre-1978 houses (within EPA RRP scope — we coordinate the certified piece)
  • Pre-paint pressure-wash + scrape combo, scheduled before a painter visit

What we bring

Gear in the truck.

  • Carbide scrapers, pull-scrapers, hook-blade tools for moldings
  • 5" random-orbit sanders with HEPA dust extraction
  • 60, 80, 120, and 220-grit paper plus sponge sanders for profiles
  • Wire brushes (hand + drill-mounted) for rust and loose paint
  • Drop cloths, plastic sheeting, painter's tape for plant beds and walkways
  • HEPA shop vac for cleanup — required when working on any pre-1978 surface

Price examples

Real jobs, real numbers.

  • Front porch railing + balusters (≈20 linear ft, full strip) — 3 hours, 2 crew, $300 total
  • Garage door scrape and sand (single bay, 9x7) — 2 hours, 1 crew, $100 total
  • South-facing siding strip (one elevation, ranch house) — 6 hours, 2 crew, $600 total
  • Exterior trim prep (full house, eaves + windows + doors) — 5 hours, 2 crew, $500 total
  • Deck prep for re-stain (full strip + sand, 400 sq ft) — 7 hours, 2 crew, $700 total

All examples assume travel inside our NJ + NYC service area. No travel surcharges.

The deep dive

Paint prep in NJ + NYC — what actually happens.

Paint scraping and exterior prep is the part of every paint job that the painter's quote does not honestly cover. The line that says "prep as needed" in a paint contract is a coin flip — sometimes it means three hours of meaningful work, more often it means a quick scuff with sandpaper and a primer coat over loose flakes that will start failing again within the first 18 months. Brick Labor exists as the dedicated prep tier for homeowners who have already been burned once. We scrape and sand to a sound substrate before the painter shows up, which means the painter's warranty is real, the paint film bonds properly, and the next 5-7 years pass without curl, lift, or alligator cracking. The work is repetitive, dusty, and not glamorous — which is exactly why it pays to outsource it to a crew that does it every day.

The substrate determines the technique

Different substrates need different prep recipes. Old wood clapboard responds well to carbide-blade scrapers run with the grain, followed by an orbital sander at 60 grit to knock the edges. Cedar shake siding cannot be sanded aggressively — the soft summer wood between the harder grain lines tears out and creates a worse surface than the one we started with — so the recipe shifts to hand-scraping plus a power-washing pass before the prep crew arrives. Trim with profile detail (crown molding eaves, dentil work, fluted column wraps) needs hook-blades and sponge sanders to match the profile. Garage doors with alligator-cracked paint need a full strip back to the steel substrate, then a phosphate-etch primer before paint, which is the painter's job. Decks are their own world — the rail-and-baluster prep on a 400-square-foot deck typically eats 7 hours with a two-person crew, and it is the cheapest insurance you can buy against a re-stain failing in 18 months.

HEPA shop vac cleanup after exterior paint prep — Brick Labor lead-safe work practices on a pre-1978 clapboard house
HEPA cleanup pass after a south-facing clapboard strip — drop cloths folded, sills vacuumed, surface signed off by the painter.

Lead paint and the EPA RRP boundary

New Jersey housing stock is heavily pre-1978, and any disturbance of paint on a pre-1978 surface triggers EPA RRP rules. The work has to be done by a certified renovator using lead-safe work practices — containment, HEPA-vacuumed cleanup, lab swab testing post-work, and specific documentation. Brick Labor coordinates the EPA RRP-certified piece with a partner who carries the certification, and we do the standard prep work on post-1978 surfaces or under the certified contractor's supervision on pre-1978 ones. We will not freelance on lead-paint regulations — the fines are serious, the homeowner-liability is real, and the actual health risk for kids and pregnant adults is not negotiable. If your house is pre-1978 and you are not sure whether it has tested positive for lead paint, tell us at booking and we will sequence the work correctly.

How prep timing fits into the painter's schedule

The two-trade sequence works best when the gap between our finish and the painter's start is 5-10 days. Less than 5 days does not give time to confirm the prep approval and order the right primer. More than 14 days lets bare wood absorb ambient moisture and degrades the prep work — surface fibers raise, fine cracks reopen, and the painter has to redo some of what we did. We coordinate timing with your painter at booking if you have one already, and we can recommend NJ-licensed Home Improvement Contractors in the painting trade if you do not. The math on the two-trade approach: a typical full-house exterior repaint costs $4,000-7,000 from a painter, of which $1,500-2,500 is usually labeled as "prep" with vague scope. Booking us for $600-1,400 in dedicated prep work and asking the painter to drop the prep line is consistently $500-1,000 cheaper than the all-in painter quote and produces a measurably better result.

Paint prep is the unglamorous work that decides whether the glamorous result lasts. We scrape, sand, dust, and walk you through the surface before the painter's ladder ever touches the side of your house. The visit ends with a substrate the painter cannot complain about and a warranty conversation that is honest. Book the prep on a Wednesday, schedule the painter for the following Tuesday, and the next 5-7 years of curb appeal are quietly insured.

Why us

Why Brick Labor for paint prep.

Paint prep is a patience trade, and patience is the trait we hire for. The crew is enthusiastic about doing repetitive scraping work correctly, multi-cultural and bilingual on most rotations, and trained to ask before improvising on a substrate they have not seen before. We stay calm when the prep reveals more rot than the homeowner expected, more lead than the test strip suggested, or more carpenter-bee damage than anyone wanted to see. Teamwork shows up in the rotation — one on the orbital sander, one on the hand-scraping, both on cleanup. Pride shows up in the final walk-through where the painter approves the surface before paint goes on, every time.

  • Enthusiastic — repetitive scraping work done right because the crew cares
  • Multi-cultural — bilingual crew comfortable in any New Jersey neighborhood
  • Calm under surprise — rot, lead positives, carpenter-bee damage, all handled with the right specialist coordination
  • Teamwork — every prep visit is a two-person rotation with rotating roles
  • Pride in the substrate — painter signs off on the surface before paint goes on, every visit

How it runs

How a Brick Labor paint-prep job runs end to end.

  1. Test and tape

    On arrival we test a few spots to see how the paint is bonded — the pull-scraper tells us in 30 seconds whether we are in light-prep or full-strip territory. We tape and drape adjacent surfaces (plants, walkways, AC units, electrical) before lifting a tool.

  2. Scrape the loose stuff

    Hand scrapers and pull-scrapers take off everything that is already letting go. We do not gouge — the goal is to remove loose paint without cutting into the substrate. Carbide blades for clapboard, hook-blades for molding profiles, wire brushes for rust spots on metal.

  3. Sand to a sound surface

    60-grit on the orbital first to knock down the scrape-edges, then 80 to feather, then 120 to smooth, then 220 for final touch on smooth wood. HEPA extraction the entire time. Profiles get hand-sanded with sponge sanders to match the existing curve.

  4. Patch and prime spot-fills

    Exterior filler in the worst gouges and bad spots. We do not full-prime the surface — that is the painter's job — but we will spot-prime any bare wood that will sit longer than a week before painting.

  5. HEPA clean and walk-through

    Drop cloths folded, HEPA shop vac across every horizontal surface (window sills, soffit edges, porch floors), tape pulled, debris bagged. Final walk-through with the homeowner so the surface is approved before paint goes on.

Why it matters

Why hire a crew for this at all.

Prep is the difference between a paint job that lasts 5 years and one that lasts 18 months. EPA and consumer-protection studies consistently link premature paint failure to insufficient surface prep, not to the quality of the paint. A flat-rate prep crew is the cheapest way to double the life of any paint job, on any substrate, in any climate. The numbers are not subtle.

Paint prep FAQ

Common paint prep questions.

Why hire a separate prep crew if I already have a painter?

Most painters quote prep as "light scuff and prime" — which works on previously-clean surfaces and fails on the ones that needed actual prep. Hiring us to do the heavy scrape and sand means your painter shows up to a true-to-substrate surface, paints once, and the coat lasts the full warranty. The two-trade approach is cheaper than a re-do.

Do you handle lead paint?

We do the surface prep, and we coordinate the EPA RRP-certified piece for any work on a pre-1978 house. The lead-safe work practices — containment, HEPA cleanup, lab swab testing — are handled by a partnered certified contractor. We do not freelance on lead-paint regulations.

Can you do this before a power wash, or after?

After is the right order. Pressure-wash first to remove the loose chalk and mildew, let the surface dry 48 hours, then scrape and sand to bare or solid substrate. We can bundle the pressure-wash into the same multi-day visit if you book both services.

How do you handle the dust?

HEPA dust extraction on the orbital sanders means about 95 percent of the sanding dust gets captured at the tool. The remaining 5 percent is what catches on drop cloths and plant beds. We tape off, pull drop cloths, and do a HEPA-vac walkthrough at the end of every day. For pre-1978 houses, we follow the EPA RRP cleanup checklist verbatim.

Do you also paint?

No — paint application is its own trade with its own licensing for commercial work and its own warranty conversation. We focus on the prep so the painter's warranty is real. We can refer NJ HIC-licensed painters we have worked alongside.

How long does the prep last before paint goes on?

Two weeks max before fresh paint goes on. Bare wood that sits longer than that absorbs ambient moisture and the prep work degrades. Schedule the painter to start within 5-10 days of our finish for the best result.

Coverage map · live

One Newark crew. All of NJ + five NYC boroughs.

Home base in Newark. We cover 45 New Jersey cities and the 5 NYC boroughs at the flat $50/hr rate. Trace the route, drop into any city, hop into any service hub — all from the map.

NEWARK · BASE
50 cities · NJ + NYC
Home base Newark, NJ 07102
  • Home base
  • NJ city (45)
  • NYC borough (5)
Book your area

By region

NJ counties we hit weekly

  • Essex
  • Hudson
  • Bergen
  • Union
  • Passaic
  • Morris

NYC boroughs

  • Manhattan
  • Brooklyn
  • Queens
  • Bronx
  • Staten Island

Outside the lines? Email hey@bricklabor.com — we travel.